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Friday, June 6, 2025

Nusara Bangkok: A Grandmother’s Legacy in Colorful Thai Cuisine

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Dakshta Bhambi
Dakshta Bhambi
Dakshta is a seasoned writer passionate about the evolving landscape of the F&B industry and restaurant technology. With a keen eye for trends, insights, and innovations, she crafts compelling content that empowers restaurateurs, cloud kitchen operators, and food entrepreneurs to stay ahead of the curve. At The Restaurant Times, she explores everything from cutting-edge tech solutions to operational strategies, helping businesses navigate the ever-changing hospitality ecosystem.

In the heart of Bangkok’s historic Ta Tien district, where the ancient Wat Pho temple meets the Chao Phraya River, stands a restaurant born from the purest form of love—a memorial to a beloved grandmother. Nusara is more than a dining destination; it’s a living tribute to the woman who raised two boys with her cooking, her stories, and her boundless affection.

When Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn and his brother Chaisiri ‘Tam’ Tassanakajohn lost their grandmother Nusara in 2020, they chose to honor her memory in the most beautiful way possible: by sharing her recipes and her spirit with the world. “Nusara, my grandma, is always my lifelong culinary inspiration,” Chef Ton reflects, and this sentiment permeates every aspect of the restaurant that bears her name.

The Philosophy of Nusara Bangkok

Chef Ton calls his approach “Colorful Thai Cuisine,” a concept that defies traditional categorization. This cuisine is neither purely traditional nor strictly modern but entirely unique and has never been attempted before. The philosophy represents his grandmother’s character: old but joyful, much like the Ta Tien neighborhood itself, where modernity and history align in perfect harmony.

Most of Nusara’s dishes trace their origins to the Rattanakosin Kingdom, with some recipes reaching even further back to the royal kitchens of the Ayutthaya Kingdom. Tom Kha, Green Curry, and various “Nam Phrik” relishes showcase Thailand’s rich culinary heritage, prepared with fresh Thai herbs like Holy Basil and both fresh and dried chilies. Every dish served was one that grandmother Nusara loved to cook for her grandsons, making each meal a deeply personal experience.

The Chef’s Journey

Nusara Bangkok's Chef's Journey
Credits: Nusara

Chef Ton’s path to culinary excellence began unconventionally. After completing his Economics degree from Chulalongkorn University, he pursued his dream at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, graduating as the top scorer. He furthered his education with an MBA in Hospitality from Johnson & Wales University before honing his skills at Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, including Eleven Madison Park, The Modern, and Jean Georges. His passion extended beyond cooking to wine, earning him certification as a Sommelier from the Court of Master Sommeliers.

This international experience shaped his vision to elevate Thai cuisine and secure its place among the world’s leading culinary traditions. Today, he stands as the only Thai chef with two restaurants simultaneously featured on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list—Le Du and Nusara—a testament to his exceptional talent and dedication.

The restaurant’s success stems from the perfect partnership between the Tassanakajohn brothers. While Chef Ton commands the kitchen, Tam serves as both maître d’ and sommelier, ensuring that wine pairings complement each dish while maintaining the exceptional service standards that earned them the Art of Hospitality Award. Tam’s business acumen and attention to detail create a seamless dining experience that extends from the moment guests arrive at the downstairs cocktail bar, Nuss, to their final moments on the terrace overlooking Wat Pho.

Record-Breaking Recognition

Nusara’s accolades are nothing short of extraordinary. Within just nine months of opening, the restaurant achieved the unprecedented feat of being selected for Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants—a record that still stands. The restaurant debuted at Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2023, simultaneously earning a place on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants extended list.

The pinnacle of recognition came in 2024 when Chef Ton became the first and only Thai chef to win the Gin Mare Art of Hospitality Award from The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. This prestigious honor, combined with Nusara’s ranking in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, solidifies the restaurant’s position as a global culinary destination. Additional accolades include being named the World’s Most Beautiful Restaurant by Prix Versailles and receiving the Best Restaurant in Thailand award from T+L Tastemaker.

The Intimate Experience

The intimate experience
Credits: Michelin Guide

Nusara’s physical space is as thoughtfully designed as its menu. The restaurant accommodates only 10 guests at one long central table, creating an incredibly intimate dining experience that feels like being welcomed into a family home. This deliberate intimacy allows diners to fully focus on the culinary journey while fostering connections with fellow guests.

The 12-course tasting menu follows a carefully orchestrated progression, beginning with playful, innovative bites that showcase Chef Ton’s creativity before transitioning to main courses served in traditional Thai family style. The signature blue swimming crab curry, served with crispy rice noodles, has become the restaurant’s most recognizable dish—a hyper-colorful presentation that perfectly embodies the “Colorful Thai Cuisine” philosophy.

Family-style mains include squid salad with squid sauce and grilled squid, Panang curry and brisket, peppercorn relish, and cherry tomato preparations. The meal concludes with pink guava and roselle desserts and a Thai ice cream sandwich, each course telling part of Thailand’s culinary story.

Location and Atmosphere

Nusara’s location in Ta Tien is deeply symbolic. This charming historical neighborhood, adjacent to the Royal Palace and famous Wat Pho temple, retains the old Bangkok way of life with street food vendors, traditional massage shops, and local convenience stores. From the restaurant’s balcony, diners enjoy breathtaking nighttime views of the illuminated Wat Pho—one of Bangkok’s rarest and most spectacular old town vistas.

The building houses multiple ventures, with Mayrai Pad Thai and Wine Bar occupying the ground floor and Nuss Bar providing the perfect setting for pre-dinner champagne service. The top-floor lounge offers additional space for guests to savor the temple views with after-dinner cocktails.

Dining Commitment and Philosophy

Nusara Bangkok: Dining Commitment and Philosophy
Credits: Nusara

Nusara operates with a commitment to authentic Thai cuisine fundamentals. The restaurant openly acknowledges that their dishes contain fish sauce, oyster sauce, shrimp paste, dried shrimp, and coconut milk—ingredients so fundamental to Thai cuisine that they cannot be omitted or substituted. This honest approach extends to their policy of not offering a vegetarian menu, ensuring that every dish maintains its authentic character.

The dining experience spans approximately 2.5 hours, during which guests embark on a culinary journey through Thailand’s royal culinary history. The restaurant’s policies reflect their commitment to providing the best possible experience: 100% deposits are required, dress code is smart casual, and commercial photography is prohibited to maintain the intimate atmosphere.

Nusara represents more than exceptional dining—it’s a love letter to Thai culinary heritage, a testament to family bonds, and a celebration of tradition reimagined through innovation. In a world where restaurants often prioritize trends over meaning, Nusara stands as a beacon of authentic storytelling through food, proving that the most powerful cuisine comes from the heart.

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